Tag Archives: brooklyn

Day 133: A promenade

As my all-too-brief return to my native city winds to a close, I’ve been making a special effort to appreciate New York and all it has to offer. Today, that meant a stroll along the Brooklyn Promenade. 

Now, I’ve got to be honest. I’ve always heard/read about the promenade and the amazing views, how it’s this incredible place to walk, etc. etc. And it was very nice. But I wasn’t blown away. Grant you, I grew up looking at the Manhattan skyline, so it’s not especially new to me. It was also a bit difficult to ignore the busy roadway beneath my feet. 

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The view I found far more interesting was that of the buildings that ran along the promenade, and of the little parks and gardens. When I came to Brooklyn Bridge Park, I was able to walk along the water without having to look past construction work, so that was more peaceful, especially with the view of the Brooklyn Bridge.

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Despite the fact that I might have built up the impact of the experience a bit in my head, it was a really lovely walk, and a perfect day for it, weather-wise. The only real disappointment: Why did no one tell me about the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory? It was a perfect ice cream day, so I got a cone from a truck, which is perfectly fine, but this place looked adorable. 

Willpower mildly intact, I refused the urge to get a second cone and returned to Manhattan on foot via the Brooklyn Bridge. I haven’t done that for about 10 years, so it doesn’t fit my 15-year rule, but despite not being a new experience, there’s nothing same-old-same-old about it. 

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Day 124: My Grave Adventure

Under the heading of unexpected new experiences, today I got locked in a graveyard and had to scale an iron fence. But… that was not my goal. The goal was to view Brooklyn’s landmark Green-wood (yes, with the hyphen) Cemetery, which greets visitors thusly:

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Founded in 1838, Green-wood is a sprawling landscape of greenery, mausoleums, statues and history. Expansive and peaceful, it’s a beautiful spot for reflection, remembrance and rest. It’s hard to believe that across the street from the entry gate is a gas station, and that a subway and convenience store are just one avenue over. 

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In 1776, the Battle of Long Island was fought on the grounds of what is now the cemetery, and some of the pathways have names like Battle Avenue and Warrior Path, while others are named for flowers. The website boasts famous “residents,” including Leonard Bernstein and Jean-Michel Basquiat, though the only name I recognized was Cooper-Hewitt, as in the design museum. 

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There was a obelisk monument for Louis Board, who lived a miserly life, and left a large fortune to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. “His benevolence and humanity were universal,” reads the epitaph. 

A monument stands over the remains of 103 of the 278 people burned to death in the Brooklyn Theatre Fire of 1876. 

The grave of Ted Morello, a longtime reporter for the Associated Press of Pakistan and one of the first members of the U.N. Correspondents’ Association, reads: “Journalist, Husband, Father, Brother, Friend.” His epitaph: “‘Tis not too late to seek a newer world,” from Tennyson’s “Ulysses.”

There was a barely noticeable lone marker beneath a tree bearing the name Henry W. Holly. It struck me because my name is Holly and I was named for my grandfather, Henry. 

Some of the stones are so old, the inscriptions are worn down beyond recognition. There are generations of families, people old and young. Those are the saddest, of course, the people who died before they really had a chance to live, young soldiers and children. One small white stone reads only “Baby Amy.” 

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It was very interesting to see how — and I don’t care for this this term, so apologies — patriarchal some of the gravestones were. Not that I’m shocked by this fact. Remember, Green-wood goes back to the 1830’s, before feminism was officially invented. Many of the spots where women were buried read “wife of…” or even “Catherine, his wife,” if a husband died first. Meanwhile, there were more than a few monuments to men that were inscribed “my husband.” There was a distinctly greater sense of women mourning men than the other way around. 

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An expanse of green was dotted with small stones, different from the larger, more ornate structures throughout the space. Some of the headstones had been visited recently, for Easter, and were decorated with flowers, stones and trinkets. Atop the grave of a 20-year-old boy was a small toy firetruck.

The stonework and statuary was just beautiful. There were two memorials built into a small hillside, next to a tree with long, gnarled roots, behind a row of small gravestones. There was a large mausoleum that resembled a castle, and another that reminded me of a Hobbit church. 

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Morbid though it might seem, I’ve long had a affinity for cemeteries. I spent many hours as a girl sitting on the steps of a mausoleum in the Druid Ridge Cemetery across the road from my grandparents’ house in Baltimore. I marveled at the Cimitero delle Porte Sante in Florence, and visited the graves of Louisa May Alcott, Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau at the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery in Concord, Mass. My favorite cemetery of all time (yes, I have a favorite cemetery) is in Amherst, Mass., and I don’t recall the name of it. I spent a summer there when I was 16, and I passed hours among the thin and crumbling gravestones. 

I’ve never given much thought to why I like cemeteries so much, but if I had to elucidate it, I’d say there are two things that appeal to me: First, cemeteries have always been very peaceful places to me, perhaps because they are final resting spots. It’s a platitude of sorts to say “he is at peace,” but there’s a sense of truth there as well. To me, cemeteries don’t typically have a sense of struggle or anxiety. And second, just imagine all the stories beneath your feet. 

Now that all being said, I don’t want to be trapped in a cemetery. The sign said the gate locks at 5 p.m. So at 4:45, I began to head back toward the entrance, but as anyone who has ever met me knows, I have an abysmal sense of direction. And Green-wood is 478 acres. So with four minutes to spare, I found myself at the back gate… which closed at 4. Awesome, right? 

There was no way in Hell I could make it to the main gate by 5. And the sign read: “If you get locked in, wait for the caretaker,” or something to that extent. Pop quiz: How often do you think the caretaker comes around after hours on a Sunday? Yeah, me too. 

So I called up my monkey ancestry (yes, I know, apes and monkeys are different, and no offense to the Creationists), and climbed over the fence (ballpark 10 feet), which landed me about a half-mile from where I’d started. 

And here’s the bitch of it all. When I finally did get back to the main entrance, five streets and three avenues from where I’d exited, guess what was open? That’s right, the main gate. The one with the sign that claims to close at 5. 

So I uttered some not-nice words and chalked it up to adventure. 

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Day 110: Shalom Easter

Where, I wondered, would be a good place to avoid Easter crowds today? 

The answer? A Hasidic Jewish neighborhood.

So off I went, to Borough Park, Brooklyn, which allegedly has the highest concentration of Orthodox Jews outside of Israel, according to several Internet sources (I’m not testifying to this fact). 

The first sign of the devotion to Orthodox culture I saw was a school bus with Hebrew letters I spotted from the subway. Then, across the platform, a family — a couple probably not much older than me, and six girls. 

When I got off the train, I immediately noted that most of the stores had signs in either Hebrew lettering or Yiddish, often both. I’m not terribly well-versed in the Orthodox or Hasidic culture and practices, so I find the opportunity to observe a little more closely to be interesting. There’s plenty to be learned by reading, of course, but sometimes it’s nice to just see what you can see. 

One thing I do know is that Orthodox Jews have particular (and perhaps, to outsiders, peculiar) practices of dress. The women adhere to practices of tznius, or modesty, so I was sure to dress in a manner that was respectful (long skirt, shirt that didn’t show cleavage, trench coat over). Married women don’t show their natural hair outside the home, so most ladies had on wigs. 

The men are more recognizable, perhaps (payot, hats, black coats, often tallit), but I’m less familiar with the whys and wherefores of their practices. Frankly, I’m a little more interested in the roles of women, and the interactions between men and women. I noted, for example, in a music and movies store,  that a shelf of DVD’s was indicated as being intended only for females.

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My first exposure to the Hasidic culture was around age 11. My parents were doing some business with a photographer, and he came to our apartment. In my attempt to be grown-up and polite, I extended my hand and said “nice to meet you.” He recoiled, or at least, that’s how I remember it. I didn’t know that Hasidic men do not touch women other than (as I understand it now) their wives, mothers, daughters and sisters. I was naive (and a child) and he was abrupt, so I was insulted. 

As I’ve learned a bit more over the years, however, the understanding I’ve come to, and this might be flawed, is that a lack of physical contact, sometimes even a lack of eye contact, is not meant to indicate that women are sub-par, but that it’s meant to preserve the specialness of contact between a husband and wife. The traditions are very different than what I (or most people I know) have grown up with, and from an outside point of view, it’s easy to look upon it as repressive and regressive. The only thing I know now is that I would have to conduct extensive research and interviews before even beginning to come to that, or any, conclusion. More research than can be done with a fast Google search.

I did notice one behavior that gave me pause, however. Several times this afternoon, I held doors for women with strollers, and not one said “thank you.” And several other times, men squeezed by me in store aisles, even bumping into me a couple of times, but none said “excuse me.” That made me curious. Was it because I was female? Because I am clearly an outsider? Or are they just being New Yorkers? For the record, plenty of us do have good manners. Or was there another reason? 

I like it when I walk away from a new experience with more questions than answers. I think figuring out the questions is just as important as knowing what the answers are. That said, if anyone would like to share any relevant knowledge or recommend resources for learning more, please do so. 

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Day 95: Saturday at Smorgasburg

I’m kind of a food nerd. Okay, I’m an aspiring food nerd because I don’t know nearly as much as I’d like to know about food, flavors, cooking, etc. But I love culinary creativity. Thus, why Smorgasburg, the all-food branch of the Brooklyn Flea Market, is a great place for people like me. 

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The space at East River State Park in Williamsburg was fairly crowded, though not uncomfortably so. If you’ve ever negotiated the subway at rush hour without committing any acts of violence (and are not claustrophobic), you should have no problem with Smorgasburg. Of course, be aware of the ignorant meanderers and the can’t-deciders, but the crowd, at least today, was not overwhelming. I imagine once the weather really warms up, the population will increase. 

Any crowd control problems are overshadowed, however, by the vast plethora of food options. I went by myself, and sampled “faux gras” and “basilcotta” (tasty! made from cashews but tastes like cheese) from The Regal Vegan, gooey butter cake from Gooey & Co. (the small square was plenty, very sweet), and taro bubble tea from Thirstea Cafe (honestly, I haven’t found a bubble tea that beats Saint’s Alp.) I also got a small bowl of ramen, and I regret to say I do not recall the name of the vendor. Later, I circled back with friends, who were kind enough to share their lobster rolls from Red Hook Lobster Pound and s’mores bar from Butter & Scotch. 

The lobster rolls, I must say, were the clear winner of the day. I was encouraged to make a pilgrimage to the shop in Red Hook, which is a part of Brooklyn I’ve never visited, so stay tuned for that particular outing, coming soon. 

Fellow food nerds, any recommendations? 

 

 

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Day 71: A bridge to Brooklyn, but not the Brooklyn Bridge

I’d never walked the Williamsburg Bridge, but it’s featured in my favorite book, A Tree Grows in Brooklyn. I’ve also interviewed saxophonist Sonny Rollins, who legendarily practiced on the lower levels of the bridge, back in 1959, and whose album, The Bridge, is inspired by those hours spent there. 

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I was meeting a friend at Oddfellow’s Ice Cream in Williamsburg this afternoon, so I decided in the spirit of both Something New and less guilt, I would walk over the Williamsburg Bridge. Of course, it took two subway rides to get there, but eventually, I was on my way. 

Now, as you can see from the link, if you clicked it, this particular bridge has been through a lot. And, you know, it’s a little rough looking close up. 

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As bridges go, I have to say this one wasn’t my favorite up close. I’m not anti-graffiti, per se, but at least let’s be interesting with it. The walking portion is on the upper level of the bridge, in the middle, so you’re not only looking down at cars, you’ve got grated sides in the way of any view. I appreciate the purpose of the grates. They’re just not aesthetically pleasing. 

The truth is, I got spoiled by a bridge. The Walnut Street Bridge in Chattanooga is gorgeous, with beautiful views. And grant you, that’s a walking bridge and the Williamsburg is not, but there’s no comparison.

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I walked the Brooklyn Bridge once, more than 10 years ago. I don’t really remember much about it. That’s one to revisit, for sure. Maybe on May 24

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Day 41: Find your thrill in Vinegar Hill

In truth, the most thrilling thing about Vinegar Hill is that it is remarkably quiet. Like, “what city am I in?” quiet. On my visit there, I saw maybe 4 other people, and two of them were in a vehicle. 

I spent 14 of my first 18 years in New York City, visited not infrequently during the next 14, and moved back in late 2012. Despite all the time spent here, however, there are innumerable pockets of this city that are brand new to me. 

Case in point: Vinegar Hill. 

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A tiny, cobblestoned enclave near DUMBO in Brooklyn, Vinegar Hill is named not for salad dressing, but for a battle during the Irish rebellion of 1978. It is decidedly uncommercial, save for a restaurant, Vinegar Hill House. It’s somewhat rundown, but the buildings and doors are brightly colored in a manner that seems reminiscent of small European cities. 

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In fact, being there gave me a similar sense to the one I often get when I travel far from home. I am more apt to overturn stones, take roads not taken, other such metaphors for being less of a wuss that I typically am. 

What have you explored in your home town or city? New Yorkers, where else do you recommend I visit? 

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Day 8: I think we can all agree, I am not an artist

I almost forgot to do this tonight, thanks to the red wine at Drink & Draw, a weekly event put on by The Living Gallery in Bushwick. I have heard of these types of gatherings before, but never actually attended one. In short, they provide a model, limited drawing supplies, and most importantly, wine.

My companion for the evening was my friend Kate, and I must say, having someone to chat to made it much more enjoyable. We sketched (or tried to), listened to Leonard Cohen, drank red wine in plastic cups, and chatted about her trip to Italy and our mutual acquaintances.

Now, I have attended a live modeling session before, when I wrote this story, but I’ve never actually participated in one as a draw-er. I can’t say “artist,” because I think this photo proves that I am nothing of the sort:

I am, however, a lady, so I felt it only polite to apologize to the model for my complete and utter lack of ability. The poor girl was posing, sans clothing, in the middle of January, in a roomful of strangers, and here was me, doing, well, what you see above.

Come to think of it, I actually did take part in another such session once upon a time, back in college, when several of my art student friends wanted to practice life drawing, and we all took turns posing. That evening, however, there was no wine, and I didn’t draw. I wrote limericks.

If you’ve never written limericks about nude people, I suggest doing so. You’ll thank me for it. That can be your something new for the day.

(Bonus new thing: Eating at Potatopia)

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